Knowledge Zenith KZ ZS5, the first $30 Hybrid Earphones with 4 Drivers in 2017?

Skip to Sound and Impressions if you are only interested in its sonic qualities.


Long Story

It’s been a few months since I got my Astell & Kern (with JH Audio) Michelle, a pair of 3-way UIEMs with 3 BA drivers. These boyz are doing good for most rock music, with powerful bass kicks and beautifully presented trebles and midranges that make guitars sound so awesome. However, ever since I got the, I’ve been questioning myself whether they were really worth their $499 price tag (or THB19900 here in Thailand). So I’ve been buying and testing cheap budget earbuds from China for 2 months now and together they cost cumulatively approx $420 (THB 15K) now. I have bought roughly 20 pairs of earbuds and 2 DAPs altogether, Hidizs AP60 and Xduoo X3, with the latter of which being my current favorite player. My love for Budget-Fi has since found a place in my heart. After I thought I’d found my ultimate sub $20 earbuds, I started to hunt for Chinese budget IEMs last month which is the time KZ ZS5 was launched. And after reading many positive impressions on Head-Fi, it’s time to order one.


Build, Fit, Accessories, etc.

My pairs are from the first batch and came with older and bigger packaging without transparent display window. The cardboard box seems find. There’re 6 pairs of eartips and a manual in the box. Since my SpinFit TP100 fits well with them, I do not use any of the eartips provided. I once tried the small size tips and the fit and sound impression was outmatched by the SpinFit. The build is solid metal, though not unibody. The matte body features bevelled angles, thin letters, and a hole (for assembling and dissembling or for acoustics?).

Since the KS5 design is a replica of Campfire Audio but without screws, we can safely assume these fit nicely and do not protrude much from the ears. These moderately light IEMs definitely fit better than my AK JH Michelle.

Sound and Impressions

Being hybrid helps decrease a lot of hissing. All my sources do make my AK JH Michelle hiss at audible level, with hiss from AP60 being the loudest despite its very weak power output. But the hissing decrease dramatically with KS5. I suspect dynamic drivers draw more power and juice to them resulting in decreased fraction of power supply to the BAs. I wonder if these will benefit from good amping.


When first plugged-in, what I immediately noticed was the IEMs’ large soundstage. Its staging is really good, with considerable length and width. The separation is superb for the price, it allows following a certain instrument more easily.

The lows and bass extends well and with the presence of sub-bass, making the lower region feel warm. The bass can be too boomy at times for someone fancying fast metal or rock songs. Bass kicks are also not as powerful and realistic as Michelle’s. It’s like the upper-bass is a bit loose. AK JH Michelle performs much better with its convincingly strong bass kicks and realistic timbres, despite its driver units being pure BAs. Vocals are subtly forwarding, with smooth texture and relaxed tone. The upper midrange is smooth and I can listen to these all day without fatigue. I love the presentation of trebles of these IEMs, it’s HIGH and easily separated from higher-mids. Though the trebles roll off quite early, they still extend far enough without giving a feeling of being in a dark room.

While the tonal balance is neither V-shaped or bass/mid/treble-oriented, it is not a flat one. It has warmth in the lower range with brighter vocals and mids, and smooth trebles which are a pleasure to listen to.

With the qualities, they’re perfect for me when listening to soft rock, unplugged recordings or live sessions. They sing Eric Clapton’s and Grateful Dead’s songs quite very well. I tried them with a more demanding tracks but the bass just doesn’t kick enough asses. I’d not recommend these IEMs for those in love with Grado-style sound, you know, bright clear mids and highs with little but ass-kicking bass. I’d also not recommend the model if you’re looking for fun IEMs to be used with your more aggressive genres.

*Sources: iPhone 6s, Xduoo X3, iPod classic 7G, Hidizs AP60

**Test units equipped with SpinFit TP100 eartips and with an upgrade silver-plated cable

Astell&Kern (with JH Audio) Michelle IEMs


I stopped looking for new cans since I’ve got the MS1i, which, if you had read my blog, impressed me really well with its bright balance, sweet and forwarding mids, and quick, controlled, punchy bass. With my preference for rock music, be it skate rock or psychedelic, I found MS1i’s sonic characteristics very appealing.

How ever, almost 5 years later, I felt the need to have a good mobile hi-fi rig. Wearing Grados in streets aren’t cool and when topped with its poor noise isolation, prevents me from taking my MS1i with me when I’m outside. That’s how I started to look for another rock-friendly earphones or earbuds, and that’s how I returned to Head-Fi world after having leaving it and enjoying music with what I have for years, and that’s how I found A&K MichelleIMG_6770.JPG

Name, Construction and Design

A&K Michelle took its name from one of the heaviest track from G n’ R from their very first album, Appetite for Destruction. The eponymous song narrates the life of Slash’s girl-friend. A&K Michelle (from now on, Michelle) was launched as the fifth in AK x JH Audio Siren Series of UIEM, and as of April 2017, only available in the said form factor. Its shell is made utilizing 3D-printing technology and thus achieving very good finish and build quality that leads to good seal. There’s no seal signs present across the (less gigantic than other Siren IEMs) bodies, with dark and shiny finishing that’s as good as a car paint. The shells are also very large compared to most competitors, they still stick out of my ears to these days (it’s like Jerry Harvey’s ear canals are freaking big and wide enough to fit these in). This large shell design however, non-comfort wise, makes room for wider soundstage for a closed-back system. Though exteriors seem good, they’re no comfortable at all. I cant stand listening to these more than 2 hours straight which is good so I won’t be unconsciously deafening myself.

Michelle’s massive size, compared to traditional earbud.

The IEMs came with a leather carry case, with 6 silicone tips of 3 different sizes, and a wax tool. User’s manuals are included of course. The IEMs also came with new twisted silver tinsel cables (one 3.5mm unbalanced and the other is 2.5mm balanced) connected via 2-pin connectors which are absurdly smaller than industry standard.



Michelle and included goodies

Key Features and Important Specs


  • Three-way Design with 3 BA Drivers
  • 13-Ohm Impedance with Unspecified Sensitivity (I assume these IEMs are highly efficient and sensitive just like most other multi-BA IEMs)
  • FreqPhase Tech
  • 2-Pin Connectors





The first thing that had me impressed when compared to MS1i was the powerful, punchy, controlled bass, though a bit bloated and colored. The bass, since it’s more abundant than that of MS1i, has more details than average IEMs. Percussions feel alive and very detailed, I could easily tell the differences between each drum. The next thing that impressed me was the detailed mids especially in the higher regions. With the isolation, the details are easy to capture. With bloated bass, the overall tonal balance is brought to darker shade which make Michelle different than most conventionally-rock sounding IEMs or headphones that are usually bright like Grados or UEs. The mids especially upper mids are where Michelle starts to shine. The mids and vocals, though not very forwarding or flat like those of SE535, is not colored that much, giving realistic vocal presentation. The mids are positioned at center, not at backward nor forward, which is novel for me since the MS1i has already forwarding mids and vocals. The higher mids are tuned very well for rock and metal music. I really love how electronic guitars sound from Michelle. It’s detailed, fun, or simply rocker’s dreams. The separation is also average for three-driver IEMs with every region being separated. There’s no muddling present for the highs and mids though the bloated bass sometimes blurs the lows. The treble extension and details are also acceptable for me, albeit not very impressive for the price. The soundstage has more depth than width and is suitable for rock and metal music. Any wider width for soundstage and the band shape is ruined. The depths are also very vertically arranged as the highs are positioned above then followed by the mids and the lows. Timbres are well present and easily audible. Acoustic guitar strings feel vivid and lively from Michelle.


In conclusion, for a $499 or 19900THB price tag (which is an entry level for JH Audio lineup), this is one of the most rock-sounding IEMs with very different approaches to the sound from the rest Rock-oriented cans( not-so-bright and not-so-flat sonic qualities). The mids aren’t as bright and the highs are not harsh like Grado’s, yet Michelle is still able to make your head move and your toes tap with its powerful bass. Michelle is fun IEMs and should not be used as monitors as its name suggests, it is a pair musical instruments meant to be used when you need some energy. In conclusion, this is a love-it or hate-it pair of earphones. I still don’t understand how this strange sounding earphones (compared to my said preference for Grados and Alessandros) sound so good to my ears, but I do understand why many have suggested it when I asked on my local headphone forum.


Burning in all dem 5 budget earbuds I’d ordered: VE Monk Plus, Qian 25, QIan 39, SeaHF 32, TY Hi Z HP32

I’ve burned them in simultaneously on the same tracks and at the same time swapping them off my ears to note the differences. During their first 30 hours, my impressions for them are as follows.

Important Notes:

  1. Monk Plus may appear to be inferior to others tho widely praised elsewhere. I believe that because the Monk Plus is a power hungry buds, it may need a more powerful source to drive dem out properly. My reviews are subjective and should not be used as an absolute guide to the SQ of these crazy cheap yet insanely good sounding buds.
  2. The reviews are arranged in orders of tones so that the formerly reviewed can be used as a ROUGH reference to the latter ones. And through comparative nature of this writing, I hope newcomers as I am will get the picture better and quicker.

IMG_0326.jpgSources: MacBook Pro 2016, iPod classic 7G, iPod touch 4G, iPhone 6S

Others: NuForce Icon Mobile (2 outputs)


Qians 39 & 25: Darker side of the five with more bass.

Qian 39: 22 Ohms, 106 dB/mW

Qian 25: 32 Ohms, 108 dB/mW

Golden Qian 39 and Blue Qian 25

For me the Q39 has a bit less treble extension to my liking though the mids are very full bodied. The Q39 has fuller mids, and unarguably the fullest of all five. The Q39’s bass is VERY WELL PUNCHY and the amount makes it the most suitable for bass heads (of the five, of course). The Q39 also has very decent separation. The highs are not harsh but not very far extended. Q39 also fits the most comfortably as the other four have very similar if not the same form factors. I prefer Q39 naked because the amount of bass is already enough for me and any darker mids wont suit my liking. (In the picture the 39 was equipped with thin foams because the picture was taken when they just arrive and I still couldnt find the sweet spot for the 39 yet.)

Q25 overall tone is like the Q39, yet with more laid back and less full bodied mids and with less amount of deeper bass. The Qians have the biggest amount of bass, overall. I enjoy both Qians naked.

Monk Plus: The balanced sound, with laid-back mids and little bass

64 Ohms, 112 dB/1mW, 

VE Monk Plus, clear shell.

With 64 ohms rating, I must admit I dont have a decent source to drive these bad boys. When used straight from my weak sources, they sound muffled, like something is being held back. I have to amplify the signal via my only dac/amp NuForce Icon Mobile (80mw@16Ohms) to get the impact. Highs are present, though can be harsh. Mids are more open than the Qians with a bit laid back position. Bass is quick and small with upper bass being the most observable and deep bass is barely present. As a Grado fan myself, I do like the quick bass and a bit thin mids, so I’m use the Monk Plus naked to avoid the mids being more recessed into the background.

SeaHF 32 (not sure if S or non-S, with mic) & TY Hi Z HP32 (L plug): The brighter side, more balanced with decent bass

SeaHF 32: 32 Ohms, 106 dB/1mW

TY Hi-Z HP32: 32 Ohms, 115 dB/1mW


I like this pair because it reminds of some Grado goodness. That bright and forwading vocals. It’s a lot brighter than Monk Plus possibly because the mids are also forwarding and hence make the overall sound more higher toned. The highs are of the same quantity as the Monk Plus’s and can be harsh, which I really enjoy abusing my ears with such high highs. The highs are more detailed than those of the Qians’. It has more mid and deep bass than the Monk Plus despite the brighter overall tonal balance. Compared to the Monk Plus, SeaHF’s bass is bigger, punches more, and the upper bass is as quick which make both good for fast rock/ metal tracks. SeaHF’s soundstage is also the largest of the five. The surprisingly wide and deep soundstage, paired with balanced tone, easily makes this my favorite of the five. The SeaHF covered with donut foams is still brighter than naked Monk Plus and I like this combination.

The SeaHF and TY sound very similarly possibly because they are from the same manufacturer. The mids of TY is a bit thinner than SeaHF’s. The higher mids like electric guitars are also brighter than SeaHF’s.The bass is abundant and well sized for bass-heads.The TY Hi Z HP32 probably has the best bass for me; it is well present, punchy, controlled. Tho the bass is controlled, sometimes it tends to intrude into the mids and hence make the overall tonal balance a bit darker than SeaHF, tho this is barely noticeable to my ears. I have to admit, in tracks where little to no bass is present, it’s very hard to tell these two apart. The highs and treble extension of both TY and SeaHF are the best to me of all five. I use my TY Hi Z 32 with donut foams.

I personally prefer TY Hi Z for more drum-intensive songs because I love the detailed and easily reachable bass although the SeaHF would actually do the same. I also prefer to listen to most vocals, jazz or less heavy tracks with the Qians since they have fuller mids but these do not do well for metal (for me, I prefer rock/ metal to be bright, very subjective)

In conclusion, the SeaHF and TY together rank third in my inventories (not only buds) while the first being my 5 years old Alessandro MS1i and the second being Astell&Kern Michelle IEMs that I’d got on March 2017. These four head/earphones are really good for rock music and are easy to drive from my smartphone with ease. Half the volume and the drums start to kick in. Add more dB and you’re in the recording room. As all of the items reviewed here are sub $10, it’s very surprising how these budget earbuds perform against a much more expensive IEMs like a $499 Michelle or a hundred buck Alessandro. Though not the same level of details and impact are achieved, the overall sonic qualities for all five are impressive and for sure worth every penny paid. Next time before buying an expensive pair of cans, I’ll make sure that I’ve checked all the budget ones already

Review: Longines Conquest Classic

March 28, 2015, while in Vienna, my family stopped by a jeweller’s. We were there because I spotted a small dress Longines with white dial and Roman numerals (which I later found to be Les Grande Classique de Longines). I wanted this watch for my 18th birthday. After discovering that the watch is quartz, I was told its mechanical counterparts were all sold out. The young man at the shop then showed me watches from other collections. I had a hard time deciding which one to get between the Longines Conquest Classic and the Longines Hydroconquest. The finalist was the Conquest Classic that is less sporty yet more elegant. The CC is powered by ETA 2892a2 and the HC by ETA 2824-2. The Conquest classic is thinner with its movement that allows thinner case construction.

The winner is Conquest Classic. It has a patterned dial and doesn’t feature crown guards present in normal Conquests.
How the watch sits on my small wrist.

The watch was delivered on highly polished steel bracelet with satin-brushed center links.

The watch in indoor light condition
The workhorse of the watch is the Longines L619 or modified ETA2892A2.
The watch has 3-hand configuration and a date window. The date wheel is white, appearing to be a bit disturbing with black dial. I think a color matching date wheel would blend in better. The legibility of the dial is moderate in normal light condition. The lume is sufficiently applied and does glow in the dark, even at 3AM.

Conclusions: This very watch is overall a good watch with classic looking, sharp execution, and a reliable movement from a well percieved brand. Its name Conquest Classic suggests that it has its roots from Conquest watches from around the 60’s that were less sporty yet more elegant than normal Conquests today. This watch is the modern interpretion of Conquest of that time, when it was a direct competitor to Omega Constellation. It is Longines’ another attempt to revive its Conquest collection, but not a remake or homage.



How I got into watches (Collection Showcase 2016)

My hobby was headphones and now it is collecting watches. It all started in a trip to Vienna when I got my Longines Conquest Classic for my 18th birthday in 2015. After getting my first Swiss made watch I did more research on horology and finally became interested in collecting watches

My first Swiss watch bought in Vienna for my 18th birthday. I didn’t treat it right so it got scratched so bad. However it is still my most loved one.

Initially I focused on new watches and modern contemporary watches or living fossils (ie. Sub, Speedmaster, Navitimer).

After convincing myself that a timelessly designed watch should always look good regardless of any factors, I ended up owning a Speedmaster Professional. My first 2 watches were brand new from boutiques because I had not known eBay.

My second Swiss watch. This ‘Sapphire Sandwich’ is currently my everyday watch. I plan to buy a Speedy (used or vintage) with hesalite crystal some time in the future.

In mid-2015 I started surfing through watch forums. My focus shifted from new watches to vintage (and used) ones as I dug deeper into the world of watches. Because a pocket watch is always cheaper than a wristwatch of the same qualities (condition, brand recognition, value, rarity, etc.), I chose to first collect pocket watches. You can buy a very well preserved 100-year-old Omega pocket watch with a fraction of the price you pay for a random mint second hand modern Omega watch. I ended up owning 2 pocket watches from the revered maison Longines and American innovative manufacturer Waltham who, in late 1800s, utilized automated production in contrast to conservative Swiss manufacturers who prefered traditional labor intensive, time consuming production procedures

Waltham model 1883 in sterling silver powered by the abundant American made ‘Grade 81’ movement. The watch was produced in 1900 in a very large quantities thanks to new equipments and automated production of some parts.
Both are from Longines. The one on the right is 103 years older.
Engraving on sterling silver hunter case of my Longines pocket watch from 1910. Tough not very popular today, Longines was once one of the most well known watchmaker. Longines has maintained deep connection to the world of equestrian sports.
Grade 81 movement (18s 17j) of my Waltham Model 1883 from 1900. Guilt finish was more prevalent before 1900. The configuration of this movement is called full plate and was exclusive to American pocket watch. On top is the balance wheel that beats slower than our new watches. It ticks comparatively louder than wristwatches.

After I found eBay while on hunting for new straps to fit my Speedmaster, my weak spot for vintage watches got weaker as I see many varieties of them on eBay from an exorbitantly expensive vintage pink gold Patek to an affordable vintage art deco Bulova. Online market can be a paradise for people seeking vintage watches but it can also be dangerous especially in vintage watch market where buyers need to have some level of knowledge in order to avoid franken watches, redialed or relumed or polished watches, or, possibly, fake ones. A week after I bought straps for my watch, I bought my Enicar as trial. My collection now is so mixed and eclectic that it ranges from cheap Japanese watch (Seiko 5) to Hi-End Hi-Beat Hi-Tech Japanese watch (45KSback then).

This Enicar from 1960’s is my first experiment with eBay after straps.
King Seiko 45KS ‘Hi-Beat’ in steel that ticks at 36000 vph or 5Hz. Higher frequency watches were considered technological marvel and more superior to traditional, low-beat watches. To this day, Grand Seiko views their Hi-Beat 36000 as paramout of their mechanical watchmaking and hence only preserves it for Grand Seikos and other few important Hi-end Seikos.

My collection also has a field watch, a diver’s and a pilot’s, all of which are essential and critical tools for professionals and military personnels. Now that I like tool watches very much for their functions and their designs that are meant to be used in some specific area, I’m really craving for an IWC 3706.

Benrus GG-W-113 field watch issued by US army. Note that the crown was replaced after being turned for 4 decades
SKX007, one of the most famous and enduring model of Seiko, is popular for its rugged case with recessed crown and reliable 7s26 automatic movement. This 200-meter water resistant watch is a very popular choice among Thai students as a more affordable version of Seiko Monster diver’s. The production of SKX007 was officially stopped in 2015, 19 years after its introduction in 1996.

My beaters are usually sportier; Omega Speedmaster Professional, Longines Conquest Classic, Seiko SKX007

My others watches (I call them sedentary) that are worn less often are King Seiko KS45 from 1970, Benrus GG-W-113 from 1973, a classic Seiko 5 and a white dial Enicar from 60s.

So, my first watch is a Seiko 5 that I got in 2006. From 2008-2015 I wore G-Shocks. And after I got my Longines in 2015, I bought many watches since then.

My Longines pocket watch circa 1910. In the past Longines was a dominant ‘manufacture’ with its own movements.
Longines watch powered by ETA movement (Longines cal.L619) circa 2014 and 2015. After the Quartz crisis, many Swiss brands opted for blank or assembled movements to reduce cost.

So I have my conclusions.

  1. My most loved watches are Longines and Speedmaster Professional.
  2. My watches with most wrist time is either the Speedmaster Professional or the SKX007
  3. My watch with best history is unexceptionally Speedmaster Professional. The watch has its own book!
  4. My most expensive watch is Speedmaster Professional which I bought from a THAI Omega boutique where the discount is limited to 5%. This added a lot additional charge
  5. My cheapest watch is Enicar which is Swiss but was very popular and successful in Asian markets excluding Thailand. Enicar is related to Racine and distantly Gallet.
  6. My most abundant movement is Seiko 7s26 in 3 watches: two Seiko 5s and one SKX007. The 7s26 is well known for its robustness and ability to gain time for nearly a minute every week. It is however capable of chronometer performance if regulated by skilled watchmaker. It has plastic parts that are considered superior to some metals but are criticized for aesthetic reason. It is purely automatic with Seiko’s magic lever system that winds the watch really fast compared to other automatic winding system. It cannot be manually wound. The 7s26 is the most produced mechanical movements and are made outside Japan to reduce cost.
  7. My overall best watch is King Seiko 45ks. The hour markers and hands are sharply executed to razor sharp edge that reflects every tiny ray of light. Tough not that impressive by today’s standard, let’s not forget that this watch was produced in 1970. Its level of finishing was sublime back then and surpassed that of many Swiss brands. The fact that in 60’s Hi-Beat movements were so hard to manufacture and Seiko was the pioneer in Hi-Beat watches represents Seiko’s excellence in watchmaking and thus makes this watch even more collectible. Seiko’s attempts to improve accuracy to compete in chronometer competitions eventually led to creation of Hi-Beat movements and brands like Grand Seiko and King Seiko. It is in this era that Seiko was banned from European chronometer competitions because it won too much awards. So this 45ks is a great example of King Seiko and Grand Seiko. It was made with highest craftsmanship and was years ahead for its revolutionary technologies for better accuracy. The rivalry between Grand and King Seiko also makes a very strong connection to the brand as if we have have to choose side between the King and the Grand.
From many aspects, I consider this watch ‘best’ in my collection though it has wrist time less than Speedmaster and SKX007

Happy hunting everyone!

Review: Omega Speedmaster Professional and my thoughts about it

It’s been 3 years since I wrote my last article here. My interests have shifted from jeans and menswear to watches and the world that surrounds them.

After getting my first Swiss watch, Longines Conquest Classic L619, in March 2015, I slowly became a watch guy. And after some thorough research for a new watch, I chose the Speedy Pro.


There’re many variations of Speedmaster Professionals within Omega’s current collection as of 2016. They can be divided into 2 groups: Speedmaster Professional (Moonwatch) and Speedmaster Professional Moonphase which is the Moonwatch with moonphase and date indicator

I personally prefer the original 3-subdial model for a number of reasons but mostly because the moonphase models have too many subdials.

1861 and 1863 models have 3 subdials.
1866 models have 4 subdials for additional date and moonphase function.

I had troubles deciding which one to get between 1861 model and 1863 model. I really like that original warm look of hesalite crystal and that inscription on the 1861 models. But I really couldn’t get my eyes off that the movement through the transparent caseback of 1863 models. Finally I chose the 1863 or Sapphire Sandwich because the movement looked so damn cool through the transparent caseback even though I knew that the 1863 models weren’t flight qualified by NASA.

1861 and


Unfortunately the model with steel bracelet was sold out in Bangkok. I didn’t want to wait for 2 more months so I decided to buy one with black gator strap. I quickly ordered the steel bracelet which only arrived 4 months later. For most of the time while I was waiting for the bracelet, I liked it most on a shark leather strap. When it comes to choosing a strap, the Speedy Pro is really a handsome and versatile watch. It looks awesome on anything. I think it might look so damn cool on a racing strap.

On Speedmaster Professional steel Bracelet.
Processed with VSCO with b5 preset
Greyscale. Shark leather strap
On shark leather strap
On brown leather strap

Two months or so after I got the watch I found the warm look of domed hesalite crystal so beautiful and captivating. Now I crave for the model with hesalite crystal. Trust me you can’t own just one moonwatch!

The day my steel bracelet arrive. At Omega Boutique
My tool watches: field watch (GG-W-113), dive watch (SKX007), pilot’s watch (Speedy)

Uniqlo Chino Pants


กางเกงชิโน (Chinos) นั้นผมเองก็ไม่ค่อยรู้ดีว่ามันคืออะไร รู้แต่เป็นกางเกงแนว military ครับ โดยสีมักจะเป็นสีกากี (Khaki) ถ้านึกไม่ออกก็สีเหมือนชุดลูกเสือครับ

โดยผ้าของกางเกงชิโนนั้นจะเป็นผ้าแบบทอแทยง (สะกดว่า ทะแยง,ทแยง อันนี้ผมก็ไม่ทราบครับ) หรือ twill fabric เหมือนผ้าเดนิม ดังนั้นหากผู้ผลิตอยากจะเพิ่มราคาเพิ่มมูลค่าของกางเกงชนิดนี้ ก็น่าจะเปลี่ยนจากผ้าทอทางขวาที่นิยมกัน (Right Hand Twill หรือ RHT) เป็นผ้าทอทางซ้าย (Left Hand Twill หรือ LHT) หรือจะเป็นผ้าทอสลับหรือหนังไก่ (Broken Twill) ก็ได้ครับ เสริมให้นิดนึงครับว่าผ้าทอทางขวาหรือ RHT นั้นนิยมมากที่สุดเพราะกางเกงยีนส์ยี่ห้อแรกในโลกอย่าง Levi’s เลือกการทอแบบนี้ครับ ส่วนการทอทางซ้ายหรือ LHT เป็นซิกเนเจอร์ของ Lee ครับ และการทอแบบสลับ Broken Twill ที่มีมาเพื่อป้องการขากางเกงบิด จากการแช่น้ำหรืออะไรก็แล้วแต่ดูจะเป็นการทอที่ใช้สมองมากที่สุด เป็นซิกเนเจอร์ของ Wrangler ครับที่ได้ใช้หัวสมองอันชาญฉลาดมาทอผ้าแบบสลับนั่นเอง




ผ้าชิโนกับเดนิม(ยีนส์)ต่างกันตรงที่ผ้าชิโนนั้นติดสีทั้งสองฝั่งครับ คือพับปลายขาออกมาก็ยังเป็นกากีอยู่ทั้งสองข้าง ในขณะที่เดนิมสีผ้าด้านในจะติดสีอะไรขึ้นอยู่กับผู้ผลิตครับว่าย้อมตัวผ้า weft มาให้รึป่าว

ที่มาของกางเกงชิโนนี่ผมก็ไม่รู้ครับ แต่ชื่อของชิโน Chino นั้น น่าจะมาจาก China โดยผ้าชิโนเนี่ยได้ถูกนำมาใช้ครั้งแรกในช่วงกลางศตวรรษที่ 19 โดยนำมาตัดเย็บทำเป็นชุดยูนิฟอร์มให้ทหารฝรั่งเศสและทหารอังกฤษและได้กลายมาเป็นเครื่องแต่งกายของคนธรรมดา

เมื่อกางเกงชิโนได้ปรากฏสู่สายตาอเมริกันชนครั้งแรกเมื่อทหารผ่านศึกชาวอเมริกันที่ไปรบในสงครามสเปน-อเมริกาใส่กลับประเทศในช่วงปลายๆของปี 1890s

ส่วนสาเหตุที่ผ้าชนิดนี้ชื่อ chino นั้น สาเหตุมาจากผ้าชนิดนี้ผลิตครั้งแรกที่จีนครับ พวกฝรั่งตาน้ำข้าวไปเห็นเข้าและรู้สึกว่าผ้าชนิดนี้มันแข็งแรงดี จึงได้นำผ้าชนิดนี้มาตัดเย็บกางเกงให้ทหารครับ

กางเกงตัวนี้เป็นกางเกงชิโนที่คุ้มราคามากครับ (พันกว่าๆๆๆ) ทรงใหญ่(วินเทจ)ไม่มีจีบ กางเกงชิโนตัวนี้ ไม่ผสมผ้ายืดเลยมีแต่ 100% cotton แต่แปลกดีครับผมใส่แล้วรู้สึกยืดหยุ่น สบายมากกว่าใส่กางเกงยีนส์ผ้าดิบที่ผสมผ้ายืด 2% ซะอีก คงเป็นเพราะน้ำหนักของเนื้อผ้าที่บางกว่า+ทรงที่ใหญ่กว่าของกางเกงชิโน กางเกงตัวนี้ยังมาพร้อมกระดุมอะไหล่ 1 เม็ดที่จะช่วยบอกได้เลยว่ากระดุมของกางเกงตัวนี้ดูไม่สมบุกสมบันเท่าไหร่

เริ่มจากทรงนะครับเป็นทรงค่อนข้างใหญ่เลยครับ ขาเกือบจะเป็นกระบอกตรงเลยครับแต่มีลู่อยู่นิดนึง สังเกตปลายขาที่ผมพับขึ้นมานะครับว่าจะมีสีเดียวกับสีด้านนอกกางเกง เพราะ waft และ weft เค้าย้อมมาเหมือนกันครับ ผ้าตัวนี้ไม่มีริมครับ แต่ผ้าแบรนด์นี้ทำมาดีมากครับเพราะสั่งทีหลายหลา ถ้าโรงงานทำผิดสเปกก็ตีกลับทั้งผืนครับ สถานที่ผลิตนั้นตัวนี้ Made In Vietnam ครับ อย่าได้ดูถูกเชียวเพราะ A.P.C. ลอตผมก็เปลี่ยนจาก Macau เป็น Vietnam


มาดูด้านหลังกันบ้างครัง กระเป๋่าหลังไม่มีกระดุม ดีเทลป้ายอะไรไม่มีเลยครับ minimalist จริงๆครับที่ไม่มีอะไรให้เลย เนื้อผ้านี่ใส่สบายคุ้มราคา 1490 บาทจริงๆครับ


รอย Honeycomb ชัดๆครับ วินเทจจริงๆ


กระดุมเป็นเม็ดพลาสติดธรรมดาไม่มีลายใดๆทั้งสิ้น กระดุมอะไหล่ที่แถมก็เป็นแบบนี้ครับ


การตัดเย็บเป็น Lock Stitch ทั้งหมดครับไม่มีการเย็บลูกโซ่หรือ Chain Stitch เลย


ซิป เป็นของ YKK ครับ ถือว่าใช้ได้ทีเดียวครับ ดูแข็งแรงสมบุกสมบันและลื่นมากๆ ได้ใช้ยาวกว่ากระดุมแน่ครับ


รูปสุดท้าย กางเกงตัวนี้ทอทางขวาหรือ RHT ครับ